Popcorn made in a pan with ghee is one of those small pleasures that makes people wonder why they ever bought the packets. It takes ten minutes, costs very little, and tastes toasty and rich rather than of artificial butter flavouring. The method is simple, but a couple of details decide whether you get a bowl of fluffy popcorn or a pan of burnt kernels and hard duds.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Use a heavy, wide pan with a lid. A large kadai or stockpot works. A heavy base prevents scorching.
  2. Test the heat. Add 2 tbsp ghee and 3 kernels. Cover and heat on medium-high.
  3. Wait for the test kernels. When all three pop, the ghee is at the right temperature. Remove them.
  4. Add the kernels off the heat. Take the pan off the heat, add the remaining kernels in a single layer, cover and count 30 seconds. This brings all the kernels to nearly popping temperature at once, so they pop together.
  5. Back on the heat. Return the pan to medium-high. Once popping starts, shake the pan gently every few seconds. Keep the lid slightly ajar to let steam escape, which keeps the popcorn crisp.
  6. Take it off in time. When popping slows to a pop every two or three seconds, remove from heat immediately and tip into a large bowl.
  7. Season while hot. Drizzle the melted ghee over the popcorn while tossing, then sprinkle over salt or your chosen blend and toss again.

Four seasoning blends

1. Classic. ½ tsp fine salt. Grind flaky or coarse salt in a mortar first so it sticks.

2. Masala. ½ tsp chaat masala, ¼ tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder, ¼ tsp roasted cumin powder, ¼ tsp salt, a pinch of black salt.

3. Curry leaf and pepper. Fry a sprig of curry leaves in the finishing ghee until crisp. Crumble them over the popcorn with ½ tsp crushed black pepper and ½ tsp salt.

4. Masala chai. Melt 2 tbsp jaggery with the finishing ghee until it bubbles, stir in ¼ tsp each of cinnamon, dry ginger and cardamom powder, and a pinch of black pepper and salt. Toss quickly with the popcorn and spread on a tray to set.

Why ghee works so well

Popcorn needs a fat that can get hot without burning. Ghee has had its milk solids removed, so it tolerates the heat of popping comfortably, unlike butter, which would scorch. It also gives a roasted, buttery flavour that coats every piece. Using ghee both to pop and to finish means you taste it twice.

Troubleshooting

Lots of unpopped kernels: the heat was too low, or the kernels are old and dried out. Store kernels in an airtight jar.

Burnt taste: the pan stayed on the heat after popping slowed. Take it off sooner.

Chewy popcorn: steam was trapped. Leave the lid slightly open.

Seasoning slides off: season immediately, while the popcorn is hot and the ghee is fresh on it.

For film night, a small bowl of this and a big bowl for everyone else. We pop ours in Desi Cow A2 Ghee.