Makhana, or fox nuts, are the dried seeds of a water lily that grows in the ponds of Bihar. Roasted, they turn light and crisp, and they absorb whatever flavour you give them. Ghee is the traditional choice for roasting, and for good reason: it crisps them evenly and helps seasoning stick. The only real skill involved is patience on a low flame.
Base recipe
- 3 cups makhana
- 1½ tbsp ghee
Method
- Check the makhana. Break one open. Discard any that are dark or smell stale.
- Warm the ghee. Heat the ghee in a wide, heavy pan on low heat.
- Roast slowly. Add the makhana and stir to coat. Roast on low heat, stirring every minute or so, for 8 to 10 minutes.
- Test for crunch. Take one out, let it cool for 30 seconds and crush it between your fingers. It should snap cleanly and feel crisp all the way through. If it is chewy in the middle, keep roasting.
- Season. Turn off the heat and season while still warm, using one of the variations below.
- Cool completely. Spread on a plate and let them cool fully before storing in an airtight jar.
1. Classic salt and pepper
- ½ tsp salt (fine salt sticks best)
- ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
- ¼ tsp chaat masala (optional)
Toss with the warm makhana. Simple and hard to stop eating.
2. Peri-peri style
- ½ tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
- ¼ tsp garlic powder
- ¼ tsp dried oregano
- ¼ tsp amchur
- ½ tsp salt
- A pinch of sugar
Mix the spices first, then sprinkle over the warm makhana and toss well. The residual heat of the ghee blooms the chilli.
3. Jaggery and cinnamon
- 3 tbsp grated jaggery
- 1 tsp ghee
- 1 tbsp water
- ¼ tsp cinnamon powder
- A pinch of salt
Roast the makhana as above and set aside. In the same pan, melt the jaggery with the ghee and water on low heat until it bubbles and thickens slightly, about 2 minutes. Take a drop and put it in cold water: it should firm up into a soft ball. Add cinnamon and salt, turn off the heat, add the makhana and toss quickly until coated. Spread on a greased plate to cool, then break apart.
Tips
Low heat only. On high heat, makhana brown outside and stay chewy inside. Low and slow is the whole method.
Do not over-ghee. About half a tablespoon per cup is enough. More makes them greasy and soft.
Cool before storing. Warm makhana release steam in a closed jar and lose their crunch.
Storage. In an airtight jar they stay crisp for a week or two. If they soften, a few minutes in a dry pan on low heat brings them back.
Why ghee
Ghee gives makhana a toasty, rich flavour that oil does not, and because it is a concentrated fat with almost no water, it crisps rather than steams them. A small amount of a flavourful ghee goes a long way in a snack like this.
Make a double batch. They go faster than anyone admits. The Desi Cow A2 Ghee jar by the stove is the one to use here.